Using Demi Colour to Filter Hyperpigmentation
Melasma, age spots, sun spots, liver spots, freckles, etc. It’s all “hyperpigmentation” in the skin!
These conditions can be caused by a variety of factors - age, sun exposure, hormones, etc. It’s all pretty inescapable for most of us. Myself, included. I struggle with uneven tone and dark spots and patches on my face, and I would consider it to be one of my biggest skin concerns. I’ve always been frustrated because even when I wear makeup, the shadow of my melasma still peeks through! Demi Colour is the only makeup I’ve ever used that erases it completely.
Demi Colour is a color correcting makeup product that uses color science to neutralize the excess color in your complexion without leaving behind any visible makeup texture. It’s not “makeup” - it’s a filter! Demi Colour doesn’t try to “cover” your skin concerns, it changes what we see so these concerns are no longer visible in the first place. Sounds magical right? Too good to be true? Nay, my good people. I say nay. (I’m weird, just go with it.)
(New to Demi Colour?? Read up on the fundamentals here.)
First things first! Let’s learn how to identify excess color in the skin!
Melasma and hyperpigmentation in the skin will be described as “brown” by most people. And it is! But it’s usually a green-brown! Hyperpigmentation will appear to look muddy, sallow, earthy, etc. and this is “excess green” in the skin. So we need to go across the color wheel to the complimentary color for green, which is red! Which means we will most likely need to use red (pink) Demi Colour to filter these areas.
There are a range of colors present in most hyperpigmentation, and it may not be a straight-forward green.
If the spot in question is particularly dark, that means it also has excess blue (or green-blue).
If the area appears yellow or almost orange, that’s most likely excess yellow-green.
The deeper the overall skin tone, the more excess blue-green will likely be present - whereas lighter skin tones tend to contain more excess yellow-green.
Learning how to “see” excess color in the skin is a skill that takes time to learn, but once you see it you’ll never be able to un-see it and it will become second nature before you know it.
When I first started using Demi Colour I was convinced my melasma was orange and tried using blue Demi shades to filter it - which obviously didn’t work and was a disaster. It wasn’t until I understood that what I was actually seeing was green and tried using pink Demi that it all made sense and came together for me.
How to Use Demi Colour to Filter Hyperpigmentation in the Skin
If the area in question is larger than the size of a sesame seed, it’s most likely more than one color! Which means you will most likely need to use more than one shade of Demi Colour to filter it.
Follow these steps:
LOOK at your skin. You will need to learn and develop the ability to identify excess colors in the skin. (If you need help learning the fundamentals of Demi Colour, head here to read more!)
Find the absolute DARKEST point, and try filtering it with orange Demi Colour (O1 if you’re fair and the darkness is reasonable, and O3 if you have a deeper skin tone and/or the darkness is deep).
For areas that look more “sallow”, try using a shade of pink (R1, RO1, OR1 if you’re fair and the darkness is reasonable, and RO3 or OR3 if you have a deeper skin tone and/or the spot is very dark.)
If a spot is quite dark you can add color and lightly tone the area around the spot to decrease the contrast and make it less noticeable. Demi Colour NR is great for this (you can also do a sheer wash of cream bronzer if you don’t have NR).
For very dark spots, it may not be possible to filter it away completely, but Demi Colour can accomplish most of the task and you will be free to gently apply foundation or concealer over the top to make it disappear completely from view.
This is just example of the process! *Please note that I used Photoshop to alter the “After” image here. This is the only image that has been altered. This is my attempt to illustrate which Demi Colour shades and techniques I theoretically would have used on this client. I would apply orange (O1) to the darkest points, then yellow-orange (YO1) on some vibrant violet broken capillaries within the spot, and lastly pink (RO1) on the lighter outer edges of the spot.
DEMI COLOUR TIPS & TRICKS
Use a very small, precise makeup brush (the Demi Colour Spot Brush is perfect), and use the smallest amount of product as possible.
As always with Demi Colour, it shouldn’t look like you’re covering the skin with color, it should look like you’re filtering - almost like you’re “wiping away” the distraction/spot.
If the color you tried didn’t work, wipe it off and try a different color. If it’s “not working”, this likely means you are using the wrong color or simply too much product.
Make sure to apply color directly to the precise point of the area you're correcting. Going “outside the lines” will create a halo effect, and will create a new color problem to solve.
I love this example of Demi Colour trial & error by my friend and fellow Seint Artist, Snow Wilfong. Look as she applies pink to the spot and it looks white/ashy, and it isn’t until she’s uses orange (O1) that the spot completely disappears!
The founder of Seint Beauty, Cara Brook, demonstrates how she uses Demi Colour to filter the darkness found in a sun spot.
*Please note: This demonstration is on a photo using Photoshop, and is merely to show the techniques and colors that should be used to filter a spot like this with Demi Colour. This is for demonstration and educational purposes only. Actual results may vary.
Ready to Give it a Try?
Hyperpigmentation in the skin can be so frustrating to deal with. But trust me, nothing hides it better than Demi Colour. Because instead of simply attempting to cover these issues, Demi addresses the excess color directly. Using much less product, invisibly, and without creasing or caking. Leaving the natural radiance of your skin in tact without layers of heavy makeup. Demi Colour can be challenging to get the hang of in the beginning - but all of your perseverance is well worth it!
The Rewind Edit
The answer to melasma and age spots is this Demi Rewind Edit. By focusing on troubled areas, you eliminate the need for multiple layers of coverage, keeping your skin glowing and youthful.
Includes Demi Correctors in shades YO1, RO1, R1, OY1, O3 and O5. Brush and palette not included.
If you need help choosing Demi Colours for your skin tone and skin concerns, click here to get color matched by me! I will email you some personalized recommendations.
